Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Posted on Aug 31, 2016 in Places

Ho Chi Minh City is the real name for Vietnam’s second largest city however, in all matters other than official dealings, the locals still refer to it by its original title, Saigon. It’s changed a lot since I first visited over 12 years ago but it’s terrific to see that some things remain the same.

In 2016, you can still see beautiful ladies in traditional ao dai (dresses over pants) riding bicycles through the city competing for road space with Bentleys and Porsches. You can eat pho on plastic stools on narrow, tree-lined laneways, even if they’re shadowed by mammoth glass skyscrapers. Designer shopping complexes are popping up and all the major fashion houses have moved in. Like most of the country it’s constantly changing but for now, it’s a fine mix of modern and traditional.

Motorcycles still rule the cities roads but the number of cars has increased dramatically so traffic is often at a standstill. There are more pedestrian crossings at major spots but that doesn’t necessarily mean the traffic stops. Unless there’s a traffic officer in attendance, it’s pretty much the same wherever you cross – choose your timing as best you can and once you’ve committed, keep a constant pace and look straight ahead. It looks like a high risk activity but in truth, it rarely results in accidents.

Things to do… for me, Saigon is a walking city. I love wandering the streets and finding new places. We recently took a detour off Le Thanh Ton and found a maze of very small alleys that were mostly deserted with the exception of a few people cleaning. It was interesting that every business was either a bar or a massage shop… this particular area did not look like I needed to see it again at night!

For first time visitors, it’s definitely worth ticking off the big sights and some can be done on a self-guided tour. For instance, a pleasant morning walk the west along Dong Khoi Street will take you past the ornate Saigon Opera House, past luxury shopping malls and down to Notre Dame Cathedral. The Cathedral is easy to spot and if you’re lucky, you’ll catch a young couple having their wedding pictures taken. The Central Post Office is on the right as you approach the front of the Cathedral and built in the 19th century with a definite French influence, it’s worth sticking your head in for a look. When you’ve finished taking happy snaps, take a stroll south through the manicured park at the rear and at the southern end you’ll come to the Reunification Palace. I won’t go into the history but even if you’re not familiar with the Vietnam War facts (or the American War as the Vietnamese refer to it!), it’s still worth a visit. Some exhibits can be a little confronting but it’s easy to exit if you find it getting a little heavy. A little more intense is the War Remnants Museum – I suggest you save that for a day when you’re feeling emotionally strong.

If the heat hasn’t wiped you out yet, head south/east from the Reunification Palace down Pasteur or Nam Ky Khia Nghia until you hit Le Loi and turn right to find Ben Thanh Markets just a couple of blocks down. The stalls and offerings haven’t changed here in years (t-shirts, shorts, business shirts, ties, fresh food, flowers, etc) but even if you’re not buying, it’s still fun for a wander.

If you’re still after more exercise, it might be time to check out Pham Ngu Lao – from the markets, go back out to Le Loi (which changes to Le Lai here!) and turn right again. Pham Ngu Lao has been the centre of backpacker tourism in Saigon for years and while that might bring some of the seedier aspects of travel, the upside is plenty of cheap and cheerful bars, restaurants, coffee shops and markets AND it’s one of the few places that you can still find bia hoi (home made beer) served on the street. If that doesn’t make you feel like wrapping up the sightseeing, nothing will!

There are many guided tours of the city available and in addition to getting all the facts from a local, you get the added bonus of being transported around rather than walking. If you’re travelling in the hot season, it’s a valid concern.

There are also a great number of day trips available and my personal favourite is a visit to the Mekong Delta. Just an hour or two out of Saigon (depending on the traffic!), the scale and beauty of the area is phenomenal and it’s fascinating to have a glimpse of life on the Delta.

Coffee is a national obsession and the traditional Vietnamese coffee is great (most hotel coffee is not!). If you stop at any of the small coffee houses, remember that they will always assume you will want condensed milk so if that’s not the case, make it clear when you order.

If you’re busy sightseeing and want something quick for lunch, food can be found at every turn. Pho is the national breakfast but is now served at all hours of the day. A broth that’s simmered for hours with noodles, vegetables, meat and herbs, some are more ‘agricultural’ than others and the locals all have a favourite stall. If you’re a little hesitant to eat on the side of the road, Pho 24 is a restaurant chain that specialises so you can sample in air conditioned comfort. In fact, there are a couple of Vietnamese restaurants with branches around the city that focus on their national dishes. Wrap and Go is mostly Vietnamese wraps, spring rolls, etc with a few other favourites but you can dine in rather than go. Mon Hue has something to suit everyone with a few wrappy things but also more substantial options if you’ve worked up an appetite. Most shopping centres offer a selection of cafes and some have a food court setup. The food court on the top floor of the new Saigon Centre is a very upmarket version that’s heavy on Japanese and Korean outlets (there’s also a Takashimaya department store in this centre). If you’re looking for something a little more middle-of-the-road, the bottom level of the Vincom Centre is home to a number of cafes and burger outlets.

Dinner is an entirely different matter. There are so many restaurants to choose from in Saigon that it’s probably better to google the style you want and choose a location that’s convenient. We stay in District 1 so I’m a fan of the complex in the old opium refinery on Hai Ba Trung. It’s set back from the street with restaurants and bars all opening to an internal courtyard. We’ve tried most of them and haven’t had a bad meal. The Japanese restaurants along Le Thanh Ton are very authentic and of course French is always going to be good in Vietnam.

Small bars and boutique beers are popping up all over the city so once again, google is your friend here. One that I’ve enjoyed previously is The Temple Club. It’s an old-world, red velvet glamour kind of place with bucket loads of atmosphere and their food isn’t too bad either. One I’m keen to try but haven’t quite made it is Pasteur Street Brewing – anyone who serves a roasted coconut beer deserves my attention!

Looking for a special night out or a big finish to your stay? Stop off for a drink at a rooftop bar. Most are in hotels like The Caravelle, The Rex and The Majestic and all have their special charms but my favourite is Level 23 at the Sheraton. It’s polished without being pretentious and it has spectacular views.

Our most recent visit was just a short stopover so that’s all I can share for now. Saigon is a rapidly changing city but for families, couples and friends, it’s still a terrific place to spend a few days.

Visited: August 2016