Chiang Mai – Thailand

Posted on Aug 11, 2016 in Places

Our last stop in Thailand (for this trip!). It’s been over 20 years since we were last here and of course it’s changed. Normally that makes me a little sad but I can honestly say I like it much better now than I did last time. Being surrounded by mountains, it’s quite a green city and less humid than our southern stops.

It has a charming cosmopolitan feel – not sure if that’s partly due to the large expat population or if it’s the other way around. The historical hub of the area is the old city inside the moat but the only sections of the wall still visible are the gates and corners. The remaining pieces are strangely beautiful and it’s fascinating to imagine the wall intact. Scattered along the rabbit warren of streets inside the walls, all manner of hotels, guest houses, restaurants, markets, bars can be found. It’s jam packed and very touristy and not really our style so we were thrilled that our research paid off and we snagged outstanding accommodation outside of the city. (Review of Laan Mai Fai Chang >here) As with all travel, the way in which you choose to travel will dictate the experience.

Outside the walled city, there are also many hotels and guest houses east towards the Ping River but I prefer the opposite direction. Nimmanhemin Road has a younger local crowd with restaurants and bars covering every style and budget. The universities are close by which would explain the demographic. Full disclosure, I’m also a little partial to this area as it’s the new home of Sawang Optical. We first met these lovely people when they were based in Koh Samui (since 1990!) and we still go to them for our optical supplies no matter where they are.

Markets and walking streets pop up all over Chiang Mai on different nights so ask around for locations. The Sunday market which starts at the Tha Phae Gate is one of the larger markets and the food here is delicious!

Chiang Mai’s roads make it easy to move around – the over/underpasses are a bit of a nightmare but you get used to them eventually. Taxis and songthaews are plentiful and cheaper than many other tourist spots.

Things to do…
Mountain biking, zipline tours, rafting adventures… Chiang Mai is the adventure capital of Thailand. If that’s not your thing, it’s also well known for massage!

There are numerous Wats to visit in the centre of the city and the Arts & Culture Centre, many of the things that attract tourists are outside the city. A drive up Doi Suthep is a very pleasant way to spend a few hours. The roads are steep and very narrow in places but not overly dangerous and the views and the mountain air are worth the effort. Wat Phrathat is on the way up (about 30 minutes) and what I saw was stunning but the number of buses (and people) here quickly convinced me that I didn’t need to stop. Bhuping Royal Palace Gardens are a little further along from the Wat. You do pass the zoo to head up the mountain so if you’re that way inclined, I believe it’s a very nice stop. On Visaka Bucha day, it’s traditional for pilgrims to walk from the zoo to the temple, a trek of around 5 hours!

Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand (2,565m) and the source of many rivers, is a little further out of Chiang Mai. It’s also a pleasant drive and not as busy as the Doi Suthep roads, probably because there aren’t as many stops on the way up.

Many people travel to Chiang Mai to learn about the hill tribes of Northern Thailand and while there is a huge assortment of day tours to choose from, those closest to Chiang Mai have always been known to be highly touristic so your commitment of time will, to some extent, dictate how authentic the experience. It’s all about research.

The same goes for elephant tours – research is crucial. If you insist on riding an elephant, it’s important to remember that elephants have to undergo extensive ‘training’ to make them fit for riding. The training is nasty stuff (if you’re not convinced, google phajaan). It’s the same story for elephants painting, playing football, etc. If you really want to see these magnificent creatures up close, please choose a no-ride sanctuary rather than a cruel, money making sideshow. There are a number of ethical and sustainable projects where you can get close to the elephants, watch them play and learn a little more about them.

So that’s the Chiang Mai I saw recently and I’m more inclined to return sooner this time.

Who would it suit?
There’s seriously something for everyone with the possible exception of the beach lover but even then, a few days relaxing by a luxurious pool is a nice alternative.

Travelled: August 2016