The Maria Island Walk & Tassie Adventure – Tasmania, Australia

Posted on Mar 31, 2017 in Journeys

14 days, 11 beds, 2 sleeping bags,

Day 1: Newcastle – Hobart via Melbourne (3hr flying, 4hr waiting!)

It’s been a while since I’ve flown Jetstar but I’m pleased to report that today’s service was seamless on both flights – smooth check in, comfortable seating (row 1 never disappoints) and no delays. The self-check in and bag drop service has definitely improved since the last time I used it. Our wait at Melbourne airport was painless with plenty of seating available and food options to please even the pickiest palates.

Hobart Airport is a lot smaller than I expected. In fact, judging by the departures area, Newcastle is larger and newer by a long shot. Having said that, bags came out reasonably quickly and taxis were plentiful. We didn’t need any other services but there didn’t seem to be too much around anyway so that’s a good thing.

Based on the drive in from the airport, my first impressions were all positive. The city is open, well cared for, not too much high rise and lots of character. Terrific to see so many heritage buildings not only retained but also lovingly repurposed. Our driver was full of facts, figures and information and even took us on a mini tour or the waterfront to show us where to buy the best fish and chips! The area around the harbour is a hive of activity with restaurants, bars and cafes. It was immediately obvious to me why so many people love Hobart.

Dinner: The Drunken Admiral

Character by the bucket load! Set in an old building on the waterfront with a strong seafaring décor, The Drunken Admiral could easily be all touristy rubbish but instead the menu is varied and the food is fresh. My choice was a little heavy on the fried food but I suspect that was just my taste on the day. Service was friendly although a little slow on our visit but they were very busy.

Accommodation: Customs House Hotel

It’s all good – brilliant location at the end of Murray Street right by the harbour, lots of character, close to restaurants and attractions. The welcome is warm and helpful with lots of information provided to enhance our stay. Rooms are bright, clean and not too small with everything we needed to make our stay comfortable. Pillows were soft and I slept very well. Bathrooms are well appointed. Breakfast is served in the restaurant downstairs and was delicious both times I tried it – quinoa muesli first and baked eggs the second time (someone else had the wallaby sausages and reported that they too were yum!). We also had a drink in the bar (not immediately after breakfast!) and it was very cosy. Most important in this style of accommodation, there was absolutely no noise issues – from the corridor, adjoining rooms or the entertainment downstairs. Terrific value for money and I would happily stay again.

Day 2 (Walk Day 1): Hobart – Maria Island

The big day has finally arrived… The Maria Island Walk. We’ve been looking forward to this for over 12 months so big expectations on our part! The sky was bright blue, the temp was already pleasantly warm and the forecast was spectacular. Right on schedule the little bus stopped out front. Derry was our super friendly driver and immediately made us feel comfortable. We (four) jumped in to find two other couples already on board – Americans (Minnesota) and fellow Australians (Victoria). One last stop to pick up another couple from Victoria and a few minutes later we were delivered to the MIW office for the briefing meeting with our guides – Sean and Sarah. We had coffee, packed up our gear and it was back on the bus. After a short (80 minute?) drive north to Triabunna, we said goodbye to Derry and met Ben who ferried us across the Mercury passage to Maria. It was a smooth transfer and I have to admit, there was a little lump in my throat when she first came into view.

“For 28,000 years Maria Island was visited by Tasmanian aboriginals. That all ended when whalers and sealers arrived in the early 1800s, though the “modern” history of the island starts in 1825, when the British established a convict penitentiary on it. Since then it has gone through several phases, as a failed land of plenty, where the Italian entrepreneur Diego Bernacchi, tried to establish his dream of a wine and silk empire (no trace remains of the thousands of vines and mulberry trees planted), than as a cement quarry and factory, followed by a period of grazing leases until, finally, in 1972, Maria Island became a National Park.”

After a 30 minute crossing, it was shoes off and into the crystal clear water at Shoal Bay. The colour of that water is mind blowing. Turquoise? Azure? Nothing seems adequate and pictures don’t do it justice. The clarity and colour of the water is attributed to the fact that the continental shelf is only 15km from Maria. There was nobody to be seen and no footprints on the beach. We were the only ones around. Once packs were on backs (the first time felt weird!), we set off north along the beach for a few hundred metres before turning east to cross the isthmus. Just as the eastern shore came into view, we stopped for a delicious lunch (paninis stuffed with prosciutto, bocconcini and pesto) under the shelter of the trees. It wasn’t a long stop – I think everyone was excited to move on so, packs back on for the short walk along Riedle Bay and then into the sand dunes in search of our secret camp.

I admit that I was a little nervous about joining my first walk and after meeting the MIW team and our briefing that morning, I was feeling more confident but as soon as we arrived at Casuarina Camp, I could feel myself relax even more. It was everything I could have hoped for – beautifully designed to blend into the landscape, no expense spared on the execution and thoughtful touches throughout to enhance our stay:

super comfortable mattresses and sleeping bags with plenty of blankets for cold frogs
daypacks at each camp for short walks
strong hooks in the tents to assist with storage
Sukin skin products available for all to use
DIY drinks and snacks in the common area with plenty of seating inside and out
equipment to assist with stretching and relaxation
relevant books available for browsing AND no need to carry a favourite because they’re replicated at each site!

… too many to list them all

We chose our tents, dumped our stuff and reconvened for afternoon tea (delicious Hummingbird cake!) and an information session. After the camp induction info was done, we learned that there were two optional walks that afternoon – history or scenery. There was a third option to stay at camp but we were too excited so we chose scenery and headed off with Sean. Our walk was initially a gentle incline through sandy scrub but as we climbed higher, we were walking through tall gums and eucalypt forest. The walk became more rocky and very steep as it headed downhill to Haunted Bay on the southern edge of the island and the views were spectacular at the peak. I was grateful that Sean was prepared for all possibilities and had carried a spare walking pole just in case – this being my first walk, I hadn’t realised how useful it could be. After a safe descent to a stunning vantage point above the bay, we stopped for a break and caught up with a bit of local history. There are a number of theories about the name of the bay. Apparently, there was once a small whaling station located below and I believe that the spirits of the poor creatures that were slaughtered, remain to haunt their murderers. Anyway…

On the way back to camp I came across my one and only snake for the entire trip. Yes, it was brown-ish in colour and no, I don’t know which particular snake it was. I choose instead to focus on the fact that it was heading in the opposite direction!

Another interesting fact we picked up… in 2012, a selection of healthy Tasmanian devils were introduced to the island by the Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service. Sadly, the devil facial tumour disease has threatened the survival of the little fellas on the mainland and this program is intended as a form of insurance for their ongoing existence. Unfortunately, there is some evidence that the devils are now impacting on the bird life of the island but…

After a brisk walk back to camp, we found the rest of the group gathering to swap stories over a delicious Tassie cheese platter and a refreshing beverage. Very civilised! We sat for a bit, laughing and enjoying the fading sunshine and marvelling at our great fortune to have such beautiful weather. Before dark, we each took turns to carry our bucket of hot water to the bush showers. Although they are cleverly constructed on a platform off the ground, there are no doors on the showers so the view was spectacular and the glass of wine I took with me made for a very surreal experience for this non-camper.

Dinner was a three course, gourmet experience (bruschetta with goat’s cheese; scallop risotto; summer pudding with fresh berries and cream) and the wines selected to match were outstanding examples of Tasmania’s finest (my favourite was the Cape Bernier Pinot Noir). Sean and Sarah worked like a professional catering crew and we all fell into bed exhausted, excited and keen to be rested for the big day ahead.

Distance covered today: approximately 8km

Day 3 (Walk Day 2): Five fabulous beaches

With the exception of only one midnight trip through the darkness to the bathroom (with my trusty head lamp!), I slept beautifully. When I was awake during the night, the noises outside were completely foreign to me but I felt safe and was able to enjoy the sound of their busy-ness. Mattresses were comfortable, sleeping bags were spotlessly clean and warm, as were the numerous blankets supplied. We slept with the flaps of our tent rolled up (screens ensured there were no insects or creatures inside) so the sight of the sunshine breaking through the forest was a magical way to wake.

After a delicious and nourishing breakfast (scrambled eggs and smoked salmon), we collected our snacks and lunch packs which were already pre-prepared (I seriously don’t know when those two slept!) and listened intently to the briefing. It was ‘five beaches’ day. I already knew this would be my favourite. Packs on!

We headed north along Riedle Bay and after a bit of beachcombing, it was goodbye to the east coast and back across the isthmus to the top end of Shoal Bay where we had disembarked the previous bay – just as beautiful the second time around. While on the beach, we were reminded that there is a challenge among walking groups to see who will swim at each of the five beaches and the water was so inviting but just a little chilly at that time of the day. I decided to enjoy the fine, white sand and exotic shells for a bit. Pack or no pack, nothing beats walking barefoot along the sand. Walking beside the long arc of the bay seemed to put everyone in a peaceful mood so there was very little talking and lots of smiles. At the end of that stretch we headed back into the scrub and found a little road that led to our morning tea (cake, chocolates and tea!) stop at French’s Farm, a small weatherboard house just off the beach. Apparently after persevering longer than most, the Frenchs’ left many years ago and the house is now maintained by National Parks. Camping is allowed, however it is a minimal impact site and there are no facilities so everything needs to be brought in (and out). French’s Farm is normally the most southerly spot that casual campers venture to on Maria and even though we were warned that we might soon see others, after an idyllic 24hours of isolation, it was a bit of a shock to encounter a group of school students who had trekked from the north of the island. Having said that, they were reasonably well behaved and respectful (except for that one boy with his own personal sound system, but he quickly recognised our confused faces and turned it off!).

Once we came into contact with strangers, we hightailed it away from French’s and headed west towards Point Lesueur. This was the only place on our travels that we encountered a strong breeze. The landscape around this area became less foresty and more scrubby so I guess it’s often that way. After we walked past the small lake (complete with black swans, geese, ducks and some long legged crane things!), wombats started popping up and there was plenty of evidence that the few we saw we part of a larger group. They were obviously enjoying the easy grazing. We pulled up for lunch (smoked chicken & pasta salad) in the shelter of the ruins of convict cells at the old probation station.

Just when I could have curled up for a nap in the sunshine, Mr Energetic (bloody Sean!) decided it was time to move on. The next beach was not the blinding white sand type but very interesting nonetheless with an old quarry and the remnants of an old wharf and rail line providing evidence of a bustling small industry in years past. At the northern end of the bay was Bloodstone Point, a laterite rock face coloured by water and minerals. Being a deep, rusty red, rock dust was sometimes used as a dye by the local Aboriginal people.

Another long stretch of gorgeousness after Bloodstone Point and someone (with better eyes than me!) spotted a stingray mooching around the shallows. About a metre across, he was so close to the sand we could almost touch him and he didn’t seem to be in any hurry. Incredibly graceful and slightly mesmerising, I could have watched him all day. But we were so close to camp…

Across the headland we detoured inland and Sean led us down a track that didn’t look much like a track to me. After ten minutes of sandy, ferny brush we arrived and I’m proud to say that I had my first wound. Ok, it was only a scratch on my calf and it was my fault (I should have worn longer pants that day) but there was blood and I couldn’t leave the island without some evidence that I was ‘roughing’ it! White Gums camp really was hidden and it was identical to the Casuarina camp but with a slightly different layout so it was easy to relax. Sarah and Sean were quick to get to work feeding us with an afternoon treat (panforte) and preparing for the evening’s feast so we settled in and headed down to the closest beach for a refreshing swim – a little slither of blinding white sand totally deserted with the exception of a cute couple of Cape Barren Geese who kept a watch on us while they wandered up and down the beach chatting at each other. We made it back to camp with just enough time to shower and watch the sunset.

After pre-dinner drinks and more delicious cheese, we finished the day with another candlelit dinner of fine Tasmanian food (soup; barbecued quail, kangaroo sausages and lamb chops served with couscous; chocolate cake) and wine (Bream Creek this time – outstanding).

Sunshine, salt water, sand, exercise, terrific food and wine, good people to share it with all in a stunning setting. It was another perfect day.

Distance: 13 kms of white sand and crystal clear water

Day 4 (Walk Day 3): Into the heart, up to the heights

Another deep sleep, a corker of a sunrise and breakfast (pancakes with spiced dried fruit) prepared by smiling faces… I could get used to this! But there was more to see and we were all eager to get underway. Soon after departure we had an important decision to make – if climbing Mt Maria, a solid commitment of time and an immediate turn inland was required. Those not taking that option, would head along the coast for the reasonably short walk to Darlington with the optional climb to Bishop and Clerks in the afternoon. We decided to stay together and take the coastal route.

First stop, the remnants of an old convict quarry. We walked across an open space sloping down towards the water that looked like the ruins of a wombat community. I’m sure the furry little fellas were in hiding somewhere close by, but while we didn’t see any of them, it was difficult to avoid their leftovers! The old quarry was a short climb below the wombats and remains of a wharf made it easier to see the full picture. When we were there it looked like the perfect ‘office’ right beside the water but I can only imagine what the conditions were really like.

Not too much further along the coast we arrived at the Painted Cliffs. I had been waiting for this one. Sandstone, water, iron oxide and many years of work by mother nature have resulted in a rock formation that resembles a piece of art. Not as deep red as Bloodstone Point but somehow more intense. The rock pools around the cliffs contained an abundance of small sea creatures and brilliant colours. So much life in contrast to the ancient cliffs.

After the cliffs, we turned inland towards the heart of the island. A quick photo stop at Howell’s Cottage (apparently, the Howell and the French families time on the island overlapped but they were not friends!) and we were now walking through cleared areas and over gentle slopes. And then it appeared – the World Heritage listed convict settlement of Darlington. I was almost a bit sad to see it come into view. It was strangely beautiful (in a historic way) but it was also confirmation that we only had one more night on the island.

We went directly to drop our packs and inspect our accommodation, Bernacchi House. What a gem! Holding pride of place overlooking the settlement and down to the cove, it was easy to imagine our predecessors conducting business within the elegant rooms and pleasure on the verandah and in the delightful gardens. Enjoying the beautiful home and its surroundings could easily make for a wonderful weekend away but we still had a mountain to conquer…

Sarah came with us while Sean attended to jobs and prepared the evening’s feast. We wandered out of the settlement through restored buildings and ruins, across creeks and wooded areas with wildlife conducting their business around us. A short walk north-east brought us to the very top of the island – we had officially made it from one end of Maria Island to the other. We stopped for lunch (pesto and walnut pasta salad) atop the cliffs, overlooking the ocean and then it was decision time. Turn back to Darlington, turn west for the short walk to the Fossil Cliffs or take on the Bishop and Clerks. Most of the group decided to tackle the Bishop. As with most of our walks, there were options and it was always easy to give it a go because even if it became too tough along the way, turning back was a simple as backtracking at your own pace. Although it was uphill all the way, for me, the hardest part was the first 20 minutes with no tree cover in full sun. After that, the climb was constant but we were walking along forest tracks (some more formal than others!) with the sun breaking through the canopy until we reached the open air of the boulder fields about an hour from the bottom. Most of the group had turned back by then so it was just us (2) and Sarah and we had powered up that far but that’s where I stopped! The remaining mountain appeared to be loose rocks and I’m not so surefooted coming down so I volunteered to wait at the bottom. A few minutes into my quiet time, encouragement came from half way up the first boulder field… apparently the views were amazing and I really should come just a little further. Hmmm… quick assessment, there was nobody around except us so I felt comfortable that I could take my time and explore a little further. Unexpectedly (to me!), further encouragement came from up higher again. Apparently the views were even more amazing up there! At this point, we agreed that I would go as far as I felt comfortable and then make my way back down. Very quickly, I lost sight of the other two and it was just me. To my amazement, I actually made it to the top of the first rise and even better than that, when I turned around to judge the effort v’s reward, the lack of trees in this area meant the views of the island and ocean were breathtaking. It was another one of those moments, so frequent on this trip, when I couldn’t stop smiling. There I was on the side of a mountain with not a soul in sight grinning like a lunatic. I made a mental note to tuck away a small portion of the serenity for use in times of chaos… and then there was a German! More precisely, a cranky German woman coming down muttering to herself and moving like her pants were on fire. I stood aside and watched her barrelling down the slope at great speed. It was a little bit funny but her speed also gave me confidence to start my downward journey and of course it was not as bad as I expected so in a very short time, I was back at the spot where we had initially parted ways. I spent about 20 minutes standing on a big boulder looking for snakes and critters (those tiny little lizards make very big noises!) until the others came into sight. They had made it to the very top in excellent time and I was very proud of my small achievement so after hydrating, we set off back down the track at a cracking pace. All up, our little side trip took about two hours, 30 minutes – one hour, 30 minutes up and another one back down. It was a fitting accomplishment to end our big day and when we arrived back in Darlington, there was just enough time (and daylight) for an icy swim to refresh and revive our hard working muscles. The beach at the settlement is every bit as nice as the others we came across during our walks with the only difference being there’s a few old buildings and a couple of humans around. With the exception of our group, all day trippers and campers disembark at Darlington which is why they rarely make it to the south of the island (where we started). Some of the old convict buildings have been repurposed as amenities blocks and school groups stay in the bunkhouses or tents but there are no shops on the island so all personal requirements must be brought in. Barbecues are available so it’s a terrific spot for family adventures.

By the time we arrived back at the house and had a hot shower, everyone was comfortably settled in the living room swapping stories. Sarah had already reported our successes on the mountain so we toasted to a triumphant day and swapped stories over more of our favourite Tassie cheeses. Our final night banquet was served in the tastefully refurbished dining room surrounded by images of Bernacchi and those who once graced the halls of his house. We celebrated birthdays (complete with party hats!), ate like kings (roast pumpkin salad; crisp skinned salmon on creamy mash; delicate lemon tart with cream), and drank more of Tasmania’s finest (the Gala Estate Pinot Noir was outstanding). As we didn’t have a big day ahead, most were keen to enjoy the night a little longer so we took our after-dinner drinks outside and marvelled at the darkness without the impact of city lights. And then we looked up… never in my life have I seen as many stars in the sky. Another magical Maria Island moment and a wonderful way to finish the day.

Distance: 17 kms

Day 5 (Walk Day 4): The Fabulous Top End

Once again, I slept beautifully. As we chose the only external room, I did have a moment during the long (two metre) hike back from a late night toilet stop when I briefly considered animals, ghosts, etc and I’m sure it was all in my imagination but I did move quickly. While it was a privilege to have access to this refined reminder of the past with its real beds and hot shower, I already missed the camps.

Breakfast was another feast (fruit, yoghurt and cereal; baked eggs) in the dining room, lots of animated conversation and excitement about our final day. As Sean and Sarah were required to pack up and clean the house, we were on our own for a few hours but armed with lots of suggestions. Some read books and soaked in the history within the house, others swam but we decided to walk again and set off for the dramatic Fossil Cliffs. Initially we took the same path as the previous afternoon but after about 30 minutes of wombats and wallabies, we turned west and climbed down the cliffs to see the remnants of marine fossils preserved in limestone, siltstone and mudstone. National Parks have gone to great lengths to provide descriptions and explanations at the site in a very user-friendly manner. I guess this is possibly due to the frequent visits from school groups but I also found it very pleasant way to learn about the history of these little creatures. We continued on, down past the little air strip and approached Darlington from the west via the harbour front. The majority of this walk was in the open and it was a little windy in spots but our good luck continued as we were protected by cloud most of the way. Wandering at our own pace, we had time to look through the remaining structures. We took particular interest in the old concrete silos overlooking the settlement. In the very early years of preparing Maria for a future of welcoming visitors, it was decided by the hierarchy that the concrete silos were not consistent with the heritage of the area so explosives were set to bring it down. It didn’t work. In fact, the process barely left a scratch so after surviving such a serious attempt at destruction, it was agreed that they deserved to stay.

We arrived back at the house to the aroma of freshly baked bread and the pop of champagne corks just in time for our final celebration. The front lawn was the setting for a relaxed party where we reclined on picnic rugs and devoured our final feast (oysters; fresh bread rolls, ham and a selection of salad items; 42 Degrees South sparkling). Conversation was animated with smiles all round and everyone commenting on our good fortune across the past four days. We swapped contacts, shared special memories and slowly made our way out to the wharf for our transfer back to Triabunna and Hobart. Oh, and just as we were about to board the boat, it started to rain.

Distance: A very relaxed 4 kms

In summary… I don’t think there was a minute of the entire four days that I wasn’t smiling like a kid in a candy shop! I can sometimes be sceptical when it comes to marketing so when I read the tag line for The Maria Island Walk – Four days that will last a lifetime. – I didn’t actually think it would apply to me. I’m pleased to say I was completely wrong and I will never forget my time on the Island. There are so many things that made this walk memorable for me.

Yes, the weather was absolutely perfect – we planned for the worst but we were blessed with the bluest skies, light breezes and crisp nights.

We also lucked out with our travelling companions – let’s face it, a bunch of whingers could have spelt disaster for the entire trip!

The planning and preparation by The Maria Island Walk team is first class. The routes, accommodation, meals, transport – everything was executed with precision. Congratulations to you, Ian, and your crew. I’m sure it hasn’t all been easy but I can only hope that others in the tourism industry can learn from your example.

And probably most important, our guides, Sean and Sarah. What a team! Sean is quietly passionate and full of energy, Sarah is bubbly and enthusiastic. They compliment each other beautifully. Both are bursting with knowledge and happy to share, regardless of how many times they are asked the same questions! They are encouraging, positive and always active, working tirelessly to ensure we had the best possible experience. They shared endless facts, figures and stories along the way but they also made sure we had quiet time to contemplate while walking. In addition to guiding, they cooked and cleaned and even though we offered to help, they rarely let us lift a finger. Nothing is too much trouble for them and they worked like a finely tuned machine.

But in the end, it’s all about the totally amazing location. Pristine wilderness and history so well cared for by the wonderful people who have been entrusted with the task to protect it. It truly is one of the most beautiful places I have ever had the privilege to spend time and I am so proud that it is in Australia.

Dinner: Frank, Hobart

Terrific location overlooking the waterfront, beautifully decorated interior with long tables and subtle lighting. We didn’t have a reservation and this seemed to cause a bit of confusion on arrival. In fact, we were handed over to three different staff members before eventually being seated, but after that, service was smooth. The wine list provides a great deal of choice and drinks were served quickly. The South American influenced menu is heavy on meat but there’s no shortage of tempting vegetable dishes. Given the style of the menu and friendly guidance from staff, we opted to share so we could sample as much as possible and four of us were quite satisfied with a couple of small plates, some sides and a meat dish. Good value, comfortable space and if it was a local, I would definitely return.

Accommodation: Customs House Hotel

Different room, same conclusion as Day 1 – great choice!

Day 6: Hobart – Stewart’s Bay

After the huge success of our Maria Island experience, we’re optimistic about seeing the rest of the island so, after an early morning walk around the waterfront, we’re off. First, a little detour for a visit. We head east and then south (I hope that’s right!) down the scenic peninsula to Opossum Bay – what a gem. It’s a quiet, peaceful little place overlooking the Derwent and back to Hobart and I believe there may be a ferry service joining the two soon but while that’s great for property prices, I’m not so sure about the serenity. We were welcomed by two truly beautiful people and spoilt with the most amazing morning tea spread. We could have spent hours listening to stories and touring their delightful home but we were on a schedule…

Off to Stewart’s Bay – north, east and south again! A lovely drive and a very pleasant way to see the island. After arriving there was just enough time to relax, unpack a little (two nights here!) and watch the sunset before dinner.

Dinner: Gabriel’s On The Bay (on-site at Stewart’s Bay Lodge)

Unfortunately, it was too cool to sit outside which looked inviting but inside, the room was warm and comfortable. Service was relaxed and friendly, food was quite nice and the Tassie wines didn’t disappoint. If I recall correctly, a Bream Creek Pinot Rose and Native Pinot Noir – both were delicious.

One point worth noting: it was fortunate that we mentioned to our waiter that we were staying two nights and would see her again. Only then did we find out that the restaurant is closed on Wednesday nights. Apparently it was mentioned in the small print but it wasn’t spoken of at check in and given the remote location, I would think it would be courteous to ensure people are stocked with supplies to cook for themselves. When we asked her for other recommendations, she had none. I think her words were, “there’s nothing around here”.

Accommodation: Stewart’s Bay Lodge

A range of well-provisioned cabins spread across a large parcel of land on the bay with direct access via a series of winding roads. Cabins are positioned to provide privacy and views where possible. Tree cover is plentiful. The Lodge is well located for day activities, the main one being Port Arthur Historical site just a short walk around the bay.

Day 7: Stewart’s Bay

It was my turn to sleep with the blinds open and I chose the right spot – sunrise through the trees and across the water was spectacular.

After a filling breakfast, we strolled around to the Port Arthur Historical Site. Fascinating, full of stories and well worth a couple of hours. Being such an important heritage site, I found it quite touristy out of necessity but still respectful of the history. It was pleasing to see that it hasn’t been turned into a theme park-styled amusement site and there was plenty of space to find a quiet corner and contemplate the people who had been here before. After wandering for a few hours, we took a boat trip to the Boys’ Island which didn’t really grab my interest but the boat trip was a pleasant way to gain a greater perspective of the site.

An afternoon nap and glass of wine on the balcony was a fitting end to a busy day.

Dinner: Given prior warning that the restaurant was closed, our very resourceful travelling companion managed to pick up some provisions at the local shop and put together a fine feast.

Accommodation: Stewart’s Bay Lodge

Day 8: Stewart’s Bay – Freycinet

Today we’re off early and heading north! Breakfast was fine at The Lodge but we didn’t fill up, hoping that we would find something different along the way and we weren’t disappointed. We stopped at the little town of Orford looking for sustenance and the takeaway right on the corner of the intersection (before crossing the bridge) had so much on offer it was difficult to choose! Lots of frittata type takeaway, salads (eat in or takeaway) and full breakfasts. In the end, my bacon & egg roll was delicious and the scallop pie wasn’t bad either.

Back on the Tasman Highway, we waved as Maria Island came into view and after we passed through Triabunna, we were on new road. The drive was uneventful (in a nice way) and more of the same beautiful scenery. Wineries seemed to be more prevalent north of Swansea and being another one of Tasmania’s most important growing areas, there were many familiar names amongst them. But we had a date with a specific wine glass so we kept our focus, stopping only at Coles Bay to buy provisions and on to our destination – Wine Glass Bay.

I was a little worried when we arrived to start our climb and the car park was packed! We managed to find a park eventually and were greeted by wallabies – honestly, they were so comfortable with visitors, you would be forgiven for thinking they were greeters. A little disconcerting for me but it was nice to get close to them. The ascent was an easy climb on well maintained paths and wooden walkways with stunning views along the way. We reached the lookout and stopped for refreshments (we were celebrating a birthday!). We found a nice, flat rock to act as table to our cheese and crackers and proceeded to fend off the wallabies while we took in the stunning views. Oddly enough, after that, nobody was keen to trek down to the bay…. The descent was as well organised as the walk up. Not a tough outing at all, highly recommended for families and it was definitely a nice surprise to find that there didn’t seem to be as many people as the car park indicated.

Dinner: The Bay Restaurant (on-site Freycinet Lodge)

Very pleasant, friendly and knowledgeable service even though our waiter admitted that it was her first night. While we stuck to our guns and order Tassie wines where possible, the extensive beverages list provided plenty to choose from.

The breakfast buffet was substantial with heaps to choose from and the coffee was quite good. The queue to order eggs was a little strange but we weren’t interested anyway so it was no bother.

Accommodation: Freycinet

Layout of the resort and design of the cabins is superb. Inside, generous proportions, décor is subtle and blends with view, beds are luxurious and climate controls are very effective.

Public areas are terrific. Loved the lounge in the afternoon with plenty of games and reading available (it will be even better when that fire is roaring!). In the evening, the inside bar area is relaxed and welcoming, and the large west-facing deck supplied my favourite sunset pic of the trip.

Day 9: Freycinet – Low Head

Given our short time on the island, we couldn’t see everything so we bypassed the north east coast and cut across country to Launceston. Still pleasant driving, not a lot of traffic around and if memory serves me correctly, not a lot of fuel stations either! Although Launceston was not our final destination for the day, we did pop in to Alp’s & Amici to stock up on supplies for dinner. Only a very spoilt home chef wouldn’t have been pleased with the wide range of provisions available and the coffee was also first class.

After a quick drive through the centre, we drove up the eastern side of the Derwent and an hour later we made it to Low Head – right at the top of the island. We dropped our bags and headed off to explore. We wanted to leave time to enjoy our accommodation and surrounds but a quick look at the map showed there was plenty to see locally. Ok, our priorities were primarily vineyards but how can you not when we were so close to some of Tasmania’s premier vineyards. In the space of two hours, we managed to squeeze in a visit to Jansz, Piper’s Brook and Holm Oak (say hi to Pinto d’Pig!) but there are so many more.

Dinner: The last night before our travelling companions headed home so with our provisions from Alp’s & Amici, the gentlemen in our party cooked up a divine lamb dinner. The perfect meal to accompany stories of our favourite experiences together.

Accommodation: Low Head Light House

Unforgettable. Being the old Light Keepers quarters, this was always going to be a very memorable stay and when we laid eyes on the spectacular location with 300 degree views over the Tamar River and Bass Strait, it was even more so. With four comfortable bedrooms (two double and two twin), a well equipped kitchen, individual heating/cooling in the rooms and expansive deck to enjoy the view, the house would also be perfect for larger parties and family groups. There is only one bath at present but I believe another is planned. Kids might also have fun looking for penguins in the yard (we adults certainly did!).

With the light from the lighthouse occasionally peeking through my window, I slept beautifully. The only problem for us, we only had one night!

Day 10: Low Head – Stanley

After enjoying the scenery on the eastern side of the Derwent the previous day, we crossed the river to explore the area on the western side and found a more laid-back, country feel. In fact, it reminded me a little of the Hawkesbury River basin – very green, winding roads, small towns.

We made our way to the airport through Launceston and delivered our travelling companions to their departure point. We were on our own for the next four days and it was a little strange with just the two of us in the car! We thought it best not to venture far away too quickly just in case they needed us… so we popped into Josef Chromy for a glass of their scrumptious pinot noir and some cheese (it was very close to the airport!). The gorgeous gardens with large tables looked like a terrific spot for a picnic in summer but even though it was sunny when we visited, it was a touch cool so we enjoyed the atmosphere inside with a view of the vines. We were lucky to arrive as a large group left, so it was quite and relaxed.

Our afternoon drive appeared to be a considerable distance, but it was only three hours driving (excluding a stop for lunch at Pedro the Fisherman, Ulverstone – delicious fish and chips). We followed the scenic coastal road for most of the afternoon and which gave us many glimpses of The Nut, way before we arrived in Stanley. Very Ayers Rock-ish!

The town itself was charming and when we arrived on Saturday afternoon most shops were closed and there was nobody on the streets. It resembled an old-fashioned wild-west town.

Dinner: Stanley Hotel

Staff had earlier warned us that we should make a reservation for dinner, still we were surprised to see the dining room was packed. The menu was all pub favourites with the usual platters, snittys, etc. and quality was fine. Service was a little slow but it was friendly.

Accommodation: Stanley Hotel

Quirky, clean, comfortable, well appointed and quiet! Friendly and helpful staff, well located right under The Nut and near the entrance to the walk. Terrific value for money.

Day 11: Stanley – Cradle Mountain

Stanley was as far west as timing permitted for our Tassie journey and it was time to make our way back to Hobart. Today, Cradle Mountain. I was looking forward to this one! We set off early to take full advantage of the day and were rewarded with a stunning sunrise over the coast as we drove out of town. The driving was easy, mostly forest scenery and on more than one occasion we agreed that we could not have had a more perfect day for driving – brilliant sunshine with a light breeze and a touch of autumn crispness in the air. There are not a lot of towns along the way and worse still, not a lot in the way of enticing breakfast/coffee stops. We did attempt to get coffee in Stanley but nothing was open so we were getting more desperate as the drive progressed! Again, I was reminded about the coffee culture in New Zealand with pop vans and seriously good coffee around every corner.

We arrived at the Lodge mid-morning and were surprised to be given an early check in. Anywhere else in the world we would have popped the champagne, put on some music and enjoyed the view from the privacy of our cabin but the surrounding forest was so inviting and there were so many walks to do. We managed to squeeze the most out of our day with a morning walk, lunch at the tavern, another two walks, drinks by the fire in the lounge and a massage in the spa followed by drinks on our deck with the pademelons! A very pleasant Sunday.

Dinner: Highland Restaurant (onsite Cradle Mountain Lodge)

Nice selection of local wines but the food left a lot to be desired and expected a lot more from a Pepper’s property.

Accommodation: Cradle Mountain Lodge

Luxury in the wilderness. An iconic property set in the pristine wilderness of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. The setting is spectacular! Check in was smooth, cabins were well spaced for privacy and grounds were well maintained. Detailed maps were provided and staff were armed with loads of information to enable guests to choose walks and activities that are appropriate.

Our little cabin was right at the top of the property and had a lovely deck with absolutely no view of anything except nature. We had pademelons playing in our ‘garden’, birds swooping and the sounds of the forest around us. Inside was spacious with a king size bed, lounge and small desk all in the main room, a kitchenette and an entry ‘muck’ room to keep any wet gear (should you not be so lucky with the weather). Note to amateurs (like us!), the log fire heated the cabin very quickly and we spent the rest of the night with the windows open.

The bathroom was my only problem. It was large and well appointed with a view of the forest from the hot tub but as soon as I walked in I commented that one of the shower screens seemed to be in an odd position (in the middle of the walkway). The very next time I went in, I almost knocked myself out. No blood but a huge egg (bruising came later) and a bit of a headache. No first aid required but champagne dulled the pain.

Day 12: Cradle Mountain – Richmond

I couldn’t have hoped for a more beautiful morning to wake up at Cradle Mountain. Air temp was crisp, fog was thick and sun was breaking through in random slices. It made for a gorgeous view of the forest outside our cabin. It was a totally different story when we started driving… slowly! We took the smaller road through the mountains and after an hour the fog cleared to a very pretty drive.

As with most of our trip, traffic was light and we were in the quaint little village of Ross just in time to stretch our legs and have a scallop pie for morning tea. Our taxi driver in Hobart claimed that it was the best in Tassie and I wouldn’t be surprised if he was right – yum!

A short drive later and we were in Richmond, our destination for the evening. Charming, picturesque, quaint, home to the oldest stone bridge in Australia – not normally the type of place we seek out but I can see why it’s so popular. Yes, we were so close to Hobart that we could have kept going but we had a date with one of our favourites, Pooley Wines. We’re already huge fans, but over a very leisurely couple of hours and a carefully selected antipasto board, we were treated to some of their best. The tasting area is a small but grand space and the external seating area, with its views across the valley, made me wish I was there for a long Sunday lunch. Unfortunately, an angry storm swept in rather suddenly so we hightailed it back to our accommodation to consider options.

Dinner: The Richmond Arms

We already knew there wasn’t much open in Richmond on Monday night so when the rain looked to be easing off, we wandered along the main street and when it became apparent we were wrong (about the rain!), we took shelter in the local pub. It’s a traditional Aussie pub with a warm welcome and the standard pub menu. Food was ok.

Accommodation: Coachman ‘s Rest

Clean and spacious motel-like units right on the main strip with parking at the door. Beds were comfortable, lots of blankets for cold frogs, small kitchenette and a functional little bathroom. Incredible value for money particularly given the popularity of the town as well as the proximity to the Hobart (20 minutes by car).

Day 13: Richmond – Hobart

Time to drop our trusty rental back and explore Hobart so we set off early. After a quick stop at the Richmond Bakery for a coffee, we were in Hobart around 30 minutes later (it was peak hour!) and looking for a substantial breakfast to provide fuel for the day – based on research, we headed to Pilgrim Coffee. Cute little café, terrific people, laidback atmosphere, no pressure to hurry and coffee was excellent. I’m a bit partial to Huevos Rancheros and their version was the best I’ve had. The Pilgrim Breakfast wasn’t too bad either.

We walked off breakfast for an hour or two around the streets of the city until the Somerset people called to say our room was ready early – bonus! We unpacked the necessary bits and headed back out to enjoy Salamanca. As our Tassie adventure was nearing the end, we celebrated with champagne and sliders in the sunshine at Jack Greene – great for people watching.

Dinner: The Glass House

This one was highly recommended by a friend but I did read reviews that gave it a bagging so I wasn’t sure what to expect. As it turned out, it wasn’t mind blowing but there was no need for concern. It’s a drop dead gorgeous space on the pier overlooking the harbour and back to the city. Interiors are pleasantly dark, moody and inviting. Tables are well spaced. Service is brisk and friendly without being too familiar. There was plenty of choice in cocktails and wine. Food was fresh and tasty, very pleasant, not generous but given the detail, it was value for money. We had a lovely night.

We wandered back to our hotel via a nightcap at Post Street Social and drifted off to sleep watching the harbour lights.

Accommodation: Somerset on The Pier

It has to be said that location was my primary reason for booking this property. It’s right in the centre of town on the pier (obviously!) overlooking the harbour. While it would be easy for them to rely on that fact to draw guests, that’s not the case here. The property is only a few years old so very fresh and beautifully designed with stunning views of the harbour and docks. Service was relaxed and super-helpful. Did I mention that our room was right on the very end of the pier? Champagne at sunset was very special.

Day 14: Hobart – Newcastle

Breakfast was so good at Pilgrim Coffee that we rushed out for another round before departure! The remainder of the day was all about airports. Domestic airports are rarely fun but I am pleased to say that Jetstar didn’t let us down on this occasion (that’s four from four on this trip!).

And that ends our trip to Tassie! I’m always interested to explore new places, but I’m embarrassed to admit that I expected it to be a little boring. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, it sparkled at every turn. People, nature, food, wines – everything about it was enjoyable.

So, I missed MONA and Salamanca Markets and we didn’t make it to Strahan, but I’m not concerned because I know it’s only the beginning of our relationship with Tasmania. We had an amazing time and we’ll be back.